SEVAGRAM

                  If you are at all interested in the life and philosophy of Mahatama Gandhi, it's well worth making the long trek to the heart of India to visit Sevagram, the Village of Service, where Gandhi established his ashram in 1933.  For the 15 years from then until India achieved independence, Gandhi's headquarters was in some ways the alternative capital on India- the British considered it important enough to install a phonebox here with a hotline to Delhi.

                       The ashram encompasses 100 acres of farmland, as well as residences and research centers.  The original adobe huts of the ashram are still preserved, as are the Mahatama's personal effects, including his famous spinning wheel and spectacles.

                       The Centre of Science for Villages (Magan Sangrahalaya) is a museum intended to explain and develop Gandhi's ideals of village level economics.  There's a photo exhibit of events in the Mahatma's life at Mahadev Bhavan, which is beside the Kasturba Gandhi Hospital.

                       Ashramites can provide excellent guided tours of the ashram, as well as giving and explanation of Gandhi's life and his ideas.  A non-denominational prayer service is held daily at 4.45am and 6pm under the pipal tree planted by Gandhi.  Hand-spun khadi is for sale at the ashram, as are volumes of Gandhi's writings.

                       At Paunar, just three km from Sevagram, is the ashram of Vinoba Bhave, Gandhi's disciple. This persistent soul walked throughout India trying to persuade rich landlords to had over tracts of land for redistribution to the landless and poor.  The ashram, which is run almost entirely by women, is dedicated to the spirit of swarajya, or rural self-sufficiency.

                       On the banks of the nearby Paunar River is a memorial marking the place where some of Gandhi's ashes were scattered; hundreds of thousands of pilgrims visit the spot every February 12 to mark the anniversary of the Mahatma's death.

                  Places to Stay & eat

                  The basic, clen Yatri Nivas at the Sevagram ashram offers accommodation and vegetarian meals for a nominal sum; donations are also welcome.  Similar accommodation (though women are preferred) is available at Paunar.

                  The Mtdc (ph.(07125)3172) also offers basic accommodation in Wardha.  Rooms are Rs 50/100.

     Getting there & Away

                  The ashram can be reached from either Wardha or Sevagram railway station, both of which are on the Central Railwsy Express trains from Nagpur to Sevagram (76km) take a little over an hour; express MSRTC buses also run between Nagpur and Wardha (2 1/2 hours)

                        Form Sevagram station an auto -rickshaw will cost around Rs 50.  There are regular local buses to the ashram from Wardha (eight km; 20 minutes).