MAHABALESHWAR

                     Pop : 12,00  Tel Area Code : 02168

The terraced hills and fertile valleys of Matharashtra's most popular hill station (1372m) are a welcome escape from the noise and fumes of Mumbai and Pune.  Mahabaleshwar has pleasant walks and panoramic lookouts (the sea is visible on a clear day), and the area has strong historical connections with Shivaji.

 The station was founded in 1828 by Sir John `Boy' Malcolm, and it was the summer capital of the Bombay presidency during days of  the Raj.

 Like most hill stations, Mahadaleshwar closes up for the monsoon season (mid - June to mid - September).  Local buildings are clad with kulum grass to prevent damage from the torrential rain - an unbelievable six meters of rain falls during the monsoon.  Local tourists, especially students from Pune and Mumbai, now come to Mahabaleshwar simply to `get wet'.

                       Information

             You must pay a Road Passenger Tax of Rs 5 on arrival.  Private vehicles must also pay a Rs 2 per day parking fee.  You can get a reasonable map of the hill station, including   the walks, from most hotels.

                  Things to See & Do

              Some faded traces of the Raj still persist in Mahabaleshwar in the many preserved and dilapidated buildings dotted around the town.  The most evocative is Mount Malcolm, built as Government House and residence of `Boy' Malcolm in 1829.  Once a magnificent country residence with park - like gardens, a gazebo for alfresco dining and commanding views over the town and surrounding valleys, it's now derelict and overgrown.

              On the hill behind the town stands Christchurch, also slowly falling apart, but with its beautiful stained glass window still intact; the squatters now occupying the church will happily allow you in for a peek.

                        Faring better after independence are the Sir BD Petit Library near the bus station and The Club, now a symbol of local prestige with its will - tended roses and `members only' jogging track nearby - protected by barbed wire and walls topped with broken glass! Also worth a detour is Morarji Castle, where Mahatma Gandhi lived during 1945.  Keep an eye out for the small tank and natural spring on the right - hand side as you walk up the driveway.

                        Most visitors come to Mahabaleshwar for the walks and views, which are impressive; Elphinstone, Babington, and Kate's points offer fine views from the wooded plateau to the plains below.  Arthur's Seat, 12km from Mahawaleshwar, looks out over a sheer drop of 600m to the Konkan coastal strip.  There are pleasant waterfalls around Mahabaleshwar, such a s Chinaman's, Dhobi's and Lingmala falls.  The small Venna Lake, about four km from Mahabaleshwar, has boating and fishing facilities.

                       In the village of old Mahabaleshwar there are two ancient temples worth visiting.  The Krishnavai, or Panchganga (Five Streams) Mandir is said to contain the springs of five rivers, including the sacred Krishan river which issues a calf.  The Mahabalwshwar Mandir is of interest for its naturally occurring lingam.

                  Organised Tours

                  In the high season, the MTDC (Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation) organises tours of Mahabaleshwar, Pratapgarh Fort and Panchgani.  Each tour costs Rs 40 pre person and can be booked at the MTDC Holiday Resort.

                  Places to Stay

                  Mahabaleshwar has plenty of hotels but many are closed during the monsoon.  The cheaper lodges are in the bazaar area, but don't expect rock - bottom prices.  Prices rise dramatically during the high season (generally from November to January and mid- April to mid - June).

                  The MTDC Holiday Resort (ph. 60318)' about two km from century Mahabaleshwar, has a variety of accommodation including dorm beds for Rs 50 per person, good doubles at Rs 200 to 300, and cottages and suites (three to four people) for Rs 400 to 700.  A taxi from the buss stand costs Rs 30.

                  Hotel Prity Sangam(ph. 60318), opposite the school at the far end of Murray Peth Rd, is the best value in this range. Roomy doubles with attached bathroom, TV and hot water are Rs 350 of season; the same rooms jump to RS 880 during the season.  The staff are friendly and the place is spotless.

                  Hotel Sangam, right across the road, is under the same management and has doubles for just Rs 250 off-season.

                   Ashoka Inn and the Amir are other cheapies worth a look on Murry Peth Rd.

                   Hotel Alba, on the corner near the mosque on Masjid St, has basic doubles for Rs 275.

                  Rama Regency (ph. 60372), opposite, is better value.  Doubles are Rs 250 to 300 off season, but skyrocket to Rs 1200 to 1500 during the season.

                       Other cheaper lodges near the centre include the Vyankatesh (ph. 60397) in the bazaar and the Samartha (ph. 60416) and the Hotel Blue Heaven on Masjid St.

                  Hotel Dreamland (ph.60228), behind the buss station, is set in spacious gardens with an open-air restaurant and a pool.  It offers a range of bungalow - style accommodation ranging from Rs 400 off-season, including excellent veg meals.

                  The Hotel Panorama (ph. 60404) , next door, is good value at Rs 500 to 1000 off season, but these rates double during the season.    It also has a multi - cuisine restaurant and a fastfood bar doing pizza and idli, as well as an ice - cream parlour.

                        More expensive hotels include the Regal  Hotel (ph. 60001), Dina Hotel (ph. 60246) and Fredrick Hotel (ph. 60240), These places generally quote all - inclusive prices in the range of Rs 1000 to Rs 1800 per person per day during the season and around Rs 750, off season.

                  Places to Eat

                  The Poonam at the Shere Punjab Hotel on Dr Sabane Rd has good non- - veg food , and the Nukkad next door is also popular.

                  Hotel Rajmahal, further up the road, serves thalis on a n open - air terrace overlooking the bazaar. 

                   The Meghdoot, also on Dr Sabane Rd, is popular  for Gujarati, Mughlai and Chinese dishes.

                  The Imperial Stores at the far end of Dr Sabane Rd was once victualler to the Raj and now turns out pizza, toasted sandwiches, burgers and other snacks.

                  Veena Restaurant at the Holiday Resort does good non - veg dishes at reasonable prices and beers are available.  Mahabaleshwar is famous for its amazing veriety of berries, which you can buy fresh (in season) or in juice, ice cream, sauces, and `creams'.

                  Getting There & Away

                  Mahabaleshwar is 117km south-west of Pune via Panchgani.  The closest railway station is Satara Road, about 15km north- east of the town of Satara.

                        From the bus terminal, there are daily buses to Kolhapur (RS 30, Five hours), Satara (Rs 18, two hours), Pune (Rs 40, 3 1/2 hours) and Panchagani (rs 4).  There's an MTDC luxury bus daily (except during the monsoon) to/from Mumbai (it leaves at 6.30am from Mumbai and at 3pm from Mahabaleshwar) which takes seven hours and costs Rs 180.

                        There are half a dozen bus-booking agents in the bazaar for luxury buses to destinations within Maharashtra or Goa. RB Travels at 49 Dr Sabane Rd are worth a try.

                  Getting Around

                  Mahabaleshwar has no auto - rickshaws but there are plenty of taxis with Maruti vans near the bust station to take you around the main viewpoints or to Panchgani.

                        If you're her for a day or two, bicycling is the best option as there's little traffic to contend with, and the roads are relatively level.  You rent and old clunker for around Rs 5 an hour from the bicycle shops at the far end of the bazaar.