LONAVLA
Tel Area Code: 02114
Situated 106km south-east of Mumbai in the hills on the main railway line to Pune. Lonavla and nearby Khandala are twin hill resorts catering for weekenders and conference groups from Mumbai. The area has changed dramatically in recent years from a sleepy backwater into a major development area.
There is little of interest inn the town's them-selves, though Khandala does overlook a picturesque ravine with a fine wet-season waterfall. For the travelers Lonavla is simply the most convenient base from which to visit the Karla and Bhaja caves.
If you're game for something more energetic, the MTDC at Bhaja (ph.82230) organises rock climbing at the Duke's Nose and other locations in the Karla hills.
Places to Stay-bottom end
There's no shortage of places to stay in Lonavla, most of them concentrated on the north side of the railway line
Pitale Lodging & Boarding (ph. 72657) is delightfully ramshackle with wide verandahs and an old-world atmosphere. The staff are genial and there's a bar, garden restaurant and shadyu trees. It wouldn't suit everyone, but it's cheap at Rs 150 a double with common bath.
Adarsh Hotel (ph. 72353) is a little more comfortable; though it backs onto the bus stand, so avoid the rooms on that side. During the week doubles are Rs 200 or Rs 350 to 500 with TV; air-con suites are Rs 800. Rates increase 20% on wekends.
Hotel Chandralok (ph.72921), across the road, is a clean, friendly place. Double start from Rs 350 including taxes (Rs 100 per extra person); air-con doubles are Rs 600. All rooms have attached bath wirh hot water. Superb Gujarati are Rs 45 (Rs 60 with dessert).
Places to Stay-middle & top-end
Hotel Star Regency (ph.73331; Mumbai 6183708), Justice Telang Rd, is tucked down a quiet, leafy lane and has doubles from Rs 720 to Rs 1260 and suites for Rs 1800. They offer a package rate of Rs 3150 a double for two nights including breakfast, dinner and taxes.
Hotel Rama Krishan (ph. 73600; Mumbai 617 8111) is up on the main road and has doubles for Rs 600 or Rs 750 with air-con.
Biji's Kumar Resort (ph. 73091; Mumbai 604 5669), nearby, is newer and has a range of large comfortable rooms from Rs 1400 to Rs 2800, Plus a wave pool and a bar. Both the Rama Krishan and the Kumar Resort have excellent open-air restaurants.
Fariyas Holiday Resort (ph. 73852; Mumbai 265 5317) offers five star luxury on a quiet hill on the western outskirts of town. It has an indoor swimming pool, health club, two restaurants and extensive gardens. Rooms are Rs 1195/2395(extra person Rs 400)
Duke's Retreat (ph. 73817; Mumbai 261 0983), at Khandala, is perched on a precipice with stunning valley views. A `standard' room will set you back a mere Rs 2900, while a deluxe room/cottage is Rs 3750, including breakfast, dinner and taxes.
Places to Eat
The best places to eat are at the hotels with restaurants mentioned above. Otherwise, try the Lonavla Restaurant on the main road, which offers Sindhi-Punjabi veg and non-veg food as well as tandoori dishes. Close by is the Mehful Bar & Restaurant, attached to the side of the noisy Hotel Gurukripa. There's an excellent fruit market in the bazaar, south of the railway station. As in Matheran, the local specialty is chikkii, a kind of nutty toffee.
Getting There & Away
Lonavla is on the main Mumbai to Pune road and railway line so there are plenty of trains and buses to/from both cities.
Bus: Most of the state transport corporation (MSRTC) buses are pretty rough and,as they take up to four hours t get to Mumbai, you're better off using the trains.
Train : All express trains between Mumbai and Pune stop at Lonavla. The trip to Mumbai (128km, three hours) costs Rs 34/160 in 2nd/1st class. To Pune (64km) there are express trains (one hour) and hourly shuttle trains (two hours0 and the fare is Rs 21/99 in 2nd/1st class.
Getting Around
See the following section for details on getting to/from the caves.
KARLA & BHAJA CAVES
Dating from around the 2nd century BC, the superb rock-cut caves in the hills near Lonavla are among the oldest and finest examples of Hinayana Buddhist rock temple at in India.
At weekends and on holidays Karla is invaded by picnic mobs from Mumbai and Pune and devotees visiting the ugly modern Hindu temple at the entrance to the cave.
It's possible to visit the caves in a day trip from either Mumbai or Pune if you hire an auto-rickshaw from Lonavla for the day.
Karla Cave
It's a steep 20-minute climb from the carpark to the Karla Cave, the largest Hinayana Buddhist chaitya in India. Completed in 80 BC, the chaitya is around 40m long and 15m high,carved by monks and artisans from the living rock in imitation of more familiar wooden architecture.
A semi-circular `sun window' filters light in towards the cave's representation of Buddha a dagoba, protected by a carved wooden umbrella. The 37 pillars, which form the circumambulatory aisles, are each topped with teak beams said to be original. On the sides of the vestibule are carved elephant heads which once had ivory tusks.
A stambha (pillar) topped by four back-to-back lions, an image usually associated with Ashoka, stands outside the cave and may be older than the cave itself. The Buddha images near the entrance were added during the later Mahayana Buddhist period.
There are some small, unadorned viharas further round thehillside, some of which have been converted into Hindu shrines.
Bhaja Caves & Forts
It's rough 3km ride from the main road to the Bhaja Caves, but well worth the effort as the setting is lusher, greener, and more peaceful than nearby Karla. Thought to date from around 200BC, ten of the 18 caves here are viharas, while cave 12 is an open chaitya, earlier than Karla, containing a simple dagoba but no sculpture.
Beyound this is a stange huddle of 14 stupas, five inside and nine outside a cave, The last cave on the south side has some fine sculptures; the caretaker will show you inside for a small `donation'
A few minutes walk past the last cave is a waterfall which may have enough water for a refreshing dip. In the hills above the caves are a couple of derelict,but atmospheric old forts-Lohagad Fort, which was twice taken by Shivaji, and Visapur Fort.
Bedsa Caves
About 15th past the Karla/Bhaja turnoffs, and six km southeast of Kamshet station, are the Bedas Caves. These caves see very few visitors, partly because of the 3km walk from
Bedas village to reach tem and partly because the main cave- a chaitya thought to be later than Karla- is much poorer in design and execution. Still, it's worth a visit if you have an interest in early Buddhist archilecture.
Place to Stay & Eat
Although most people stay at Lonavla, it is possible to stay closer to Karla Cave at the MTDC Resort (ph. 82230). It's just off the Mumbai to Pune road near the turnoff to the caves and has double rooms for Rs 225 and Rs 300 plus suites and cottages (all of which sleep four people) for Rs 450 to 1000, some with air-con. There's a bar and a good restaurant.
Getting There & Away
The caves are about 11km from Lonavla (see the previous section for details on getting to/from Lonavla). The Karla Cave is about 1.5km north of the main road, while the Bhaja Caves are about three km south of the main road, across the railway tracks.
Local buses are supposed to run about a dozen times a day between Lonavla and Karla and to the Rajmachi Fort, but in fact they run far less frequently and are chockfull when they arrive.
If you don't mind walking, you can get around comfortably in a day for about Rs 20. First catch the 9am bus from Lonavla to the Karla and Bhaja caves will cost around Rs 250, a little more if you include Bedsa. In the monsoon, the road to Bhaja is often closed to vehicles at the Malavli railway crossing.
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