KOLHAPUR

                  Pop; 480,200 Tel Area Code: 0231

                  Kolhapur was once the capital of a important Maratha state.  It's an interesting little town and worth exploring for a day or two if you're passing through. One of Kolhapur's maharajas died in Florence, Italy, and was cremated on the banks of the Arno where his chhatri (cenotaph) now stands.  The last maharaja, Major General His Highness Shahaji Chhatrapati II, died in 1983.

                        Maharaja's Palace

                  The maharaja's `new' palace completed in 1881, hours the Shahaji Chhatrapati Museum, one of the most bizarre collections of memorabilia in India.  The building was designed by `Mad' Charles Mant, the British architecture who fashioned the Indo - Saracenic style of colonial architecture (he practiced the style on several colonial buildings in Kolhapur) and is a cross between a Victorian railway station (clock tower included) and the Addams Family mansion.

                        The palace contains a weird and wonderful array of the old maharaja's possessions including his clothes, old hunt photos, silver peacock- shaped elephant saddles and the memorial silver spade he used to `turn the first so of the Kolhapur State Railway' in 1888.

                       But dominating every room in the palace are reminders of the maharaja's macabre passion; killing wild animals to decorate his palace.  Skins cover floors and furniture, trophy heads stare blankly from the walls, ashtrays and coffee tables are made from tiger and elephant feet, lamp stands from ostrich legs and zebra hoofs.  The variety of stuffed animals includes black bear, rhino, pangolin, panther and entire pride of lions in a forest diorama! There's even a painting of the Maharani entitled `The World's Greatest Woman Pig Sticker'.

                       The Gun and sword collection could easily outfit a small army: dozens of swords, daggers, axes, pistols, put guns and instruments room.  The most unusual piece (and befitting a maharaja) is a gold- plated, double- barrelled shotgun.

                       The palace is a few km north of the centre.  Rent a bicycle, or take an auto - rickshaw (Rs 10). Entry is Rs 5.

                 Other Things to See

                 The Mahalakshmi Temple, dedicated to the goddess Amba bai, dominates the old town.  Of particular interest is the carved ceiling of the columned mandapam.  Nearby, the Old Palace still accommodated members of the maharaja's family, but in its cool atrium (open 10am to 6pm daily) you're more likely to find students poring over books under the benign gaze of a larger - than -life painted carving of the maharaja and a retinue of stuffed animals.  An alley leads from the front of the palace to Kolhapur's famous wrestling ground, which resembles an enormous sandpit.  Kolhapur has produced several Indian national wrestling champions, and you can see them training most days at 5pm.

                       The Town Gall, built by Mant in 1872-76, is now a small but satisfying museum, housing pottery and bronze artefacts found during archaeological excavations on nearby Brahmapuri Hill, including a small bronze of the Greek god Poseidon holding his Siva- like trident.

                       For a respite from the city's bustle, head down to the sacred ghats on the Panchganga River or to Lake Rankala, five km from the railway station.

                  Places to Stay

                  The main hotel and restaurant area is around the square opposite the bus stand, 10 to 15 minutes walk from the centre of town and the railway station, where there are retiring rooms.

                 Hotel Chalukya (ph. 652996) has habitable doubles for Rs 150, slightly more with TV.  There's hot water in the morning and extra beds cost Rs 40 per person.

                     Hotel Sahyaadri (ph. 650929) is of a similar standard but can be noisy.  Rooms are Rs 170/200.

                     Hotel Maharaja (ph. 652140) is marginally better at Rs 130/210 or Rs 300 for a four-bed room with TV.

                Hotel Girish (ph.651236), Just around the corner, is friendly and clean.   It has rooms for Rs 150/200, all with TV and phone.  There's also a restaurant and a bar.

                       Ten minutes walk east of the bus station are three mid-range places.  All face busy Station Rd, so rooms near the front can be noisy.  Hotel International (ph. 652442) has rooms for Rs 225/275 to Rs 275/325 or Rs 400 with air-con, all with TV and phone.  A veg restaurant is attached.  Hotel Ashoka Prestige (ph. 654232) is a little pricier with doubles costing Rs 480 without air-con.  Hotel Panchsil (ph.650517) is more comfortable than either, with rooms ranging from Rs  400/450 to Rs 450/500 or Rs 600/650 with air-con; suites are Rs 725 and there's a  multi cuisine restaurant.

                      Hotel Shalini Palace (ph. 620401) is the maharaja's old summer palace by Lake Rankala, five km from the bus  stand or railway station.  It dates back only to the 1930s but has plenty of regal grandeur.  Rooms are Rs 300/450 or Rs 700/995 with air-con.  Royal suites range from Rs 1500 to Rs 1800.

                  Places to Eat

                  The restaurnts are also clustered around the bus - Station Square.  The Subraya Restaurant, opposite Hotel Sahayadri, has north Indian veg and non-veg dishes, and regulation thalis.  You could also head up the road to the restaurants at the Hotel International and Hotel Panchsil, where you'll pay around Rs 100 for a three-course meal.

                        In the evening dozens of snack stalls set up opposite the bus stand, whipping up great omelettes and other goodies.

                  Getting There & Away

                  BUS: There are daily departures for Satara, Bijapur, Mahabaleshwar, Pune , Ratnagiri and Belgaum.  There are plenty of private bus companies around the square offering luxury coach services to Goa and other destinations.

                  TRAIN: The railway station is 10 minutes walk west of the bus station, towards the centre of town. The broad - gauge line connects Kolhaour via Miraj with Pune (eight hours) and Mumbai (13 hours)- take the daily Koyna Express or the overnight Mahalaxmi Express.  The Maharashtra Express zigazgs 1220km through the state to Nagpur.

  AROUND KOLHAPUR

                  Panhala

                  Panhala is a little -visited hill station (altitude 975m) 18 km north-west of Kolhapur, and makes an interesting excursion from Kolhapur.  The hilltop fort has a long and convoluted history: it was originally the stronghold of Raa Bhoj II in 1192, was captured by both the Mughals and the Marathas and was finally taken by the British in 1844.  The Pawala Caves are nearby, as well as a couple of Buddhist cave temples.