AURANGABAD
Pop: 682,000 Tel Area Code: 0240
Aurangabad has a number of attractions and could easily stand on its own were it not overshadowed by the famous Ellora and Ajanta caves nearby. The city is named after Auangazeb, but earlier in its history it was known as Khadke.
Aurangabad is northern Maharashta's largest city though is remarkably uncrowded and quiet except for the occasional political and quiet except for the occasional political rally.
Orientation
The railway station, tourist office and a variety of cheaper hotels and restaurants are clustered in the south of the town. The bus stand is 1.5km to the north. North-east of here is the crowded old with its narrow streets and distinct Muslim quarter. The midrange hotels are between the bus stand and railway station while the top-end places are dotted around town.
Information
The very helpful Government of India tourist office (ph. 331217) on Station Rd. (West) has a decent range of brochures and will try t answer almost any query. It's open from 8.30am to 6pm weekdays and until 1.30pm on Saturday. The state tourist office (ph. 331513) in the MTDC Holiday Resort Station Rd (East), is open from 7am to 7pm but is not as useful. There are also information counters at the airport and railway station, which open to meet arriving passengers.
Poste restante can be collected from the GPO at Juna Bazaar from 10 am to 5pm Monday to Saturday.
Bibi-ka-Maqbara
The so-called `poor-man's Taj Mahal' was built in 1679 as a mausoleum for Aurangzeb's , wife, Rabia-ud-Daurani. It's a cheap imitation of the Taj in Both design and execution it simply looks awkward compared with the elegance and symmetry of the Taj: and where the Taj has gleaming marble, this tomb has flaning plaster. On the main gate an inscription reveals that it cost precisely Rs 665,285 and 7 annas to build. Still, it attracts hordes of visitors and would no doubt be considered a high point of Mughal architecture if the Taj did not exist. It's much more atmospheric at night, when it's floodlit. It's open from sunrise to 10pm and admission is Rs 2.
Panchakki
Panchakki takes its name from the mill that, in its day, was considered a marvel of engineering. Driven by water brought through earthen pipes from the river six km away, the mill once ground grain for pilgrims. Today it's simply a cool and serene respite from bustling Aurangabad, though some travellers have thought it nothing more than `an unremarkable pair of murky pools'.
Baba Shah Muzaffar, a Sufi saint and spiritual guide to Aurangzeb, is buried here, and the garden with its series of fish-filled tanks serves as his memorial. It's open from 8am to 8pm daily and admission is Rs 1.
Aurangabad Caves
Although they're easily overlooked in favour of the Ajanta and Ellora caves, Aurangabad has its own group of caves a couple of km north of the Bibi-ka-Muqbara. They were carved out of the hillside around the 6th or 7th century Ad. The 10 caves are all Buddhist; caves 1 to 5 are in the western group and caves 6 to 10 are about one km away in the eastern group.
Western Group All the caves are viharas, except for cave 4. This, the oldest cave at Aurangabad, is a Hinayana chaitry with a ridged roof like the Karla Cave near Lonavla and is fronted by a stupa, now partially collapsed. Cave 3 is square and is supported bby12 highly ornate columns. It has an interesting series of sculptures depicting scenes from one of the Jatakas.
Eastern Group Cave 6 is fairly intact and the sculptures of women are notable for their exotic hairstyles and ornamentation. There is a large Buddha figure here and Ganesh also makes an appearance. Cave 7 is the most interesting of the Aurangabad caves, particularly for its sculptures- the figures of women, scantily clad and ornately bejewelled , are indicative of the rise to Tantric Buddhism during this period.
To the left of Cave 7 a huge Bodhisattva preys for deliverance from the eight dangers; fire, the sword of the enemy, chains, shipwreck, lions, snakes, mad elephants and a demon (representing death).
You can walk up to the caves from the Bibi-ka-Maqbara pr take an auto- rickshaw up to the eastern group. From this group you can walk back down the road to the western group and then cut straight back across country to the Bibi-ka-Maqubara.
Organised Tours
There are tours from Aurangabad to the Ajanta and Ellora caves, Daulatabad Fort and the sights of Aurangabad, but they're rushed affairs.
The MTDC (ph. 331513), the ITDC (ph. 331143) and the MSRTC (ph. 331647) run virtually identical daily tours to the Ajanta and Ellora caves, including and accompanying guide. In addition to English the ITDC can arrange guides speaking French, German, Spanish, Japanese and possibly other languages. In each case the Ellora tour also includes the major Aurangabad sites- Daulatabad Fort, Grishneshwar Temple, Aurangazeb's Tomb, Bibi-ka Maqbara and Panchakki- way too much to cover adequately in a single day. Prices and times vary slightly, the MSRTC being by far the best value.
MTDC tours start and finish at the MTDC Holiday Resort; the ITDC tours at the Aurangabad Ashoka Hotel and the MSRTC tours at the central bus stand.
Places to Stay-bottom end
There are retiring rooms at the railway station for Rs 50 per head. There's a string of cheap and basic places near the station with double rooms from Rs 50 to 70, including Ambika Lodge and Hotel Pariwar
Hotel Tourist Ashoka (ph. 320020) is a little better and has rooms for Rs 100/250.
Green Palace and Ajinkya are the pick of the cheapies opposite the bus stand - basic rooms are around Rs 90/125.
The Youth Hostel (ph. 334892) on Station Rd (West), is a little tattered, but it's the cheapest place in town. Separate male and female dorms cost Rs 42 ahead (Rs 22 for YHA members) and double rooms are Rs 90. There's a 10pm curfew, hot water in the morning and meals are available.
Hotel Panchavati (ph. 25204), next to the youth hostel, has rooms for Rs. 75/115 with attached bath, and hot water in the mornings. It's basic but the staff are amicable and there's a good restaurant and bar.
Shree Maya (ph. 333093), just around the corner, is will kept and friendly with rooms for Rs 100/150 and air-con doubles for Rs 350. Each room has TV and cold shower (but hot/ cold bathtaps).
The two hotels on Station Rd. (West) are good value and popular with backpackers.
Hotel Natraj (ph. 24260) is a typical family run boarding house with rooms for Rs 90/100 with bathroom. The Tourist's Home (ph. 337212) next door has basic but very clean rooms at Rs 60/100 to 70/125, all with bathroom.
Hotel Printravel (ph 29707), on Station Rd (West) 600m south of the bus stand, has rooms for Rs 125/200, each with attached bath.
Hotel Ashiyana (ph. 29322) is a newish place just off Station Rd (west) offering clean rooms from Rs 100/150 with attached bath and TV.
Places to Stay - middle
Heading north along Station Rd (East) there are several mid-range hotels.
The MTDC Holiday Resort (ph. 34259) is set in its own shady grounds and has four-bed rooms with communal bathroom for Rs 200; doubles with bathroom are Rs 225 or Rs 400 with air-con. A Mosquito net are provide and there's a restaurant, a bar and a pleasant garden.
Hotel Nandavan (ph. 336314) about one km from the railway station is good value at Rs 140/190 with attached bathroom, 24-hour hot water and TV, or Rs 300/350 with air-con. There are two small resorts and a bar
Hotel Rajadhani (ph. 336503), is not terrific value at Rs 350/425 for standard rooms (Rs 425/495 with air - con ), but planned renovations and an open- air coffee shop will certainly help.
Hotel Amarpreet(ph.33252d1) out on Pt Nehru Marg (Jalna Rd)three km from the station towards the airport, is a little more expensive with rooms for Rs 425/525 or Rs 499/675 with air-con. It's comfortable if a little rough around the edges, and has a restaurant, bar, coffee shop and travel desk.
Places to Stay-top end
Aurangabad Ashok (ph. 20520; fax 313328), Dr Rajendra Prasad Marg, is the cheapest in this range, with air-con rooms for Rs 1000/1500. This hotel has all the usual Ashok amenities but has seen better days.
Vedant (ph.333844) is also central on Station Rd (East). This modern, multi-storey Quality Inn hotel has two restaurants, a bar, central air-con and swimming pool. Rooms cost Rs 1330/2430 including breakfast, direct dial STD/ISD and TV
Ajanta Ambassador (ph. 485211; fax 484367), out near the airport at Chikal Thana, is a five star hotel that has it all - swimming pool , bar restaurants and shopping arcades. Prices start at around Rs 1200/2300 a single/double.
Welcomgroup Rama International (ph. 48541; fax 484768), nearby, offers similar luxury at similar rates.
President Park (ph. 486201; fax 532230), a very classy three star, is a little further out towards the airport and is excellent value at Rs1100/1600, with deluxe suites for Rs 2350. The best feature of this hotel is its semi-circular swimming pool set in gardens with a poolside bar. It also has a travel desk, gym, multi-cuisine restaurant and coffee shop
Taj Residency (ph. 332221) is a gleaming oasis on the northern fringes of town. The hotel sweeps around an immaculate garden and swimming pool. Well-appointed rooms start at Rs 1195/2375.
The Meadows (ph. 677412; fax 677416) is a cluster of small, modern bungalows set in their own spacious and irrigated gardens in a rural location about six km from Aurangabad on the road to Ellora . Rates are Rs 1400/ 2000, and facilities include satellite TV, pool, gym & sauna, children's playground, mult- cuisine restaurant and coffee shop.
Places to Eat
There's a clutch of rock-bottom restaurants along Station Rd (East), including the Tirupati and Bharthi, which both specialise in cheap south Indian meals.
Food Lovers garden restaurant is close by , and has the best ambience in town- earth floor, thatched walls and an ingenious cooling system on hot days. The Punjabi and Chinese food is delicious and if you spend Rs 100, you get a discount voucher for your next visit. It's open until midnight.
Foodwals Tandoori Restaurant & Bar is further up Station Rd (East) and offers just what its name implies.
Chanakya Restaurant & Bar, a little further up the Road, is another fine tandoori place.
Bhoj, on Dr Ambedkar Rd, is a popular 2nd floor restaurant serving expensive but excellent south Indian vegetarian food . It opens for breakfast from 7am.
Petang Restaurant, nearby at Hotel Printravel,, does a superb Rs 35 thali. You can wash it down with a mild beer (nothing `strong' is available) ; this place stays open until quite late.
Mingling out on Jalna Rd has a reputation for tasty and even imaginative Chinese and Indian food. Proces range from Rs 40 to Rs 100 for mains.
The Kandeel next door is another popular dinner spot.
The Vedant has a buffet breakfast in the coffee shop for Rs 60 and daily buffet lunch for Rs 99.
Getting There & Away
Aurngabad is off the main line but there are still direct trains from Mumbai and Hyderabad. Ajanta and Ellora are completely off the railway lines and are usually approached from either Aurnagabad (Ellora 30km, Ajanta 106 km) or from Jalgaon (Ajanta 60km). Jalgaon is on the main broad- gauge line from Mumbai to Allahabad.
Air: The airport is about 10km east of town on the Jalna road. En route you'll find the Indian Airlines office (ph. 24864), The NEPC Airways office is in the President Park hotel, two km closer to the airport.
Indian Airlines has two flights daily of Mumbai (US$55) and NEPC also flies daily to Mumbai(US$70). On Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday there's an Indian Airlines flight to Udaipur (US$90), which continues to Jaipur (US$110) and Delhi (US$135).
Bus: There are MSRTC buses from Aurangabad to Pune (six hours), Indore and Mumbai (388km via Manmad, 400km via Pune). The MSRTC and MTDC also offer luxury overnight buses t Mumbai (12 hours, Rs 200). The luxury bus agents congregate around the corner where Dr Rajendra Prasad Marg becomes Court Rd.
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